Exploring The Desolation Wilderness
If I had to rank the Desolation Wilderness in terms of scenic beauty in the Sierras, it would be right up there close to the likes of Yosemite, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon National Parks. It is packed with jaw dropping, picturesque view upon view and yet it seems to get shadowed out by its famous next door neighbor, Lake Tahoe. Don't get me wrong, Tahoe is beautiful and worthy of some serious exploration, however, the crowds, traffic, and touristy nature of a large portion of that area makes it less appealing to me. For this reason, I will list my top 3 Desolation Wilderness hikes.
Before I get into it, allow me to formally introduce this favorite wilderness area of mine. The Desolation Wilderness is part of the Eldorado National Forest and Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit. Tickling 64,000 acres, it's not particularly large as Lake Tahoe itself is practically double the size at a little over 122,000 acres. Both are nestled well within the Sierra Nevada mountain range and the Sierras are best known for towering granite peaks, endless pine and fir forests, crystal blue sparkling lakes, and crashing waterfalls. The DW, as I'll call it here, was blessed with all of these spectacular features just the same.
The trails and scenery here are no secret. They can get very busy especially on those perfect mountain days during the summer so it's unlikely you'll be the only one out there. It does offer, however, the solace of knowing that most non-locals have no idea a true treasure sits just southwest of the big, blue lake. So rest assured you'll get some quality Sierra time without sharing it with 10,000 of your closest, selfie loving friends.
My top 3 Desolation Wilderness Hikes
Alright, here we go. Lace up those boots or trail runners, grab a pair of trekking poles, and don't forget your water. Let's dive in!
Pyramid Peak
What a doozy this adventure is. At 9,983 feet, it's high enough to give your lungs an excellent workout and if you have enough people on your trip, a human pyramid attempt at the summit might net one lucky person the opportunity to breathe that 10,000 foot air. Jokes aside, the real killer is the brutal 4,100 feet of elevation gain in a little over 3 miles. It's just plain STEEP. Total round trip of the South East Ridge Route is only 6.5 miles. There are a few other, less menacing routes which offer less elevation gain in exchange for more miles, but ain't nobody got time for that. You will be challenged on this hike, guaranteed.
How to Get There
Getting to the South East Ridge Route "trailhead" itself is an adventure. It's not exactly your typical lot with bathrooms, picnic tables, and people handing out free ice cream when you get back to the car. No, think of the trailhead as more of a mystery scavenger hunt. You have to work for the mountain mentally before working for it physically. I will explain with my fuzzy memory coupled with a couple landmark photos to help aid in your quest at finding this hidden "trailhead" on the side of the road and if you want more details, go to Summitpost for additional help (linked at the bottom of this article). If you actually find where the trail begins, rest assured the thinking part of the trip is just about complete. It's easy from here on out. Just hike straight up the mountain and stop at the first peak on your left. If you miss your exit you'll be in outer space within 10 minutes so keep your eyes peeled for the pinnacle. Yeah, it's that steep.
Google Maps has actually taken a lot of head scratching out of the mix since then with it now pinned on the map so you can at least find where to park, but from there, you'll have to head northeast by foot up Highway 50 until you reach mile marker 59.0 which nowadays should also have a "keep right except to pass" sign. Directly across the highway, you'll be greeted by a steep grade. Here, you'll find a rock with some paint on it. Climb from there and you'll find the main trail.
Here is the Google Maps pin to the pulloff: https://maps.app.goo.gl/xXLJoBsXm3XDDr548
This hike and all others within the Desolation Wilderness require a free permit.that can be obtained at either the trailhead or a Forest Service office. These permits must be carried with you on your hike. It's important to get a permit as you don't want to be caught without one.
The Ascent
I did this hike with my brother who was also living in California at the time. It was September and getting late in the day. If memory serves me correctly, we had something like 3.5 - 4 hours of daylight to get the job done and arrive back at the car. We brought headlamps as a precautionary measure, but with a little pep in our step, we attacked the mountain and made very few stops. We focused so much on the ascent, that I didn't take any photos until after we cleared the treeline. There aren't really any breaks in the trees for cool photo ops anyways.
If your calves and lungs don't fail you, the treeline will finally give way to a view of the summit. At this point, you've accumulated over 3,500 feet of gain and your next obstacle lies ahead, the talus climb. Personally, I enjoy climbing up talus and while borderline sketchy, it presents a new climbing challenge. You're like an ant on a mound of marbles. Every step needs to be calculated to some degree because many of these rocks are loose, wobbly, unstable, or just plain dangerous to step on. Choose wisely and take your time up here.
As you reach the summit, you will be blown away with the epic panoramic views of the area. Take some time to soak in the vistas. You deserve it. The stark contrast of the bright blue lakes coupled with the gray granite, green pines, and possible white snow is really a sight to take in. You will not regret the effort it took to get up here! Aloha Lake, Lake Tahoe, and many neighboring peaks and lakes are all visible.
The sun was getting low in the sky when we summited and being September, it was really beginning to get cold up there. Adding the brisk wind kept wind chills in the mid 20s. Needless to say, between the temperature and the setting sun, we weren't on the peak long.
Lastly, don't forget to look for the summit register to record your summit bid. It's an old ammo can with a notebook and pens/pencils.
Now that you've reached the peak and are ready to descend, get ready to scramble down the talus. I find it more difficult to go down as you can't really use your hands in this situation. If you remembered to bring them, utilizing trekking poles is a valuable asset when balancing on loose rocks especially on the descent. They also prove beneficial when the quads start acting up as you accumulate those 4100 feet of elevation loss. Take it easy and before you know it, you'll be back to the car.
Lake Aloha
I really don't think it's possible to find a terrible hike in the DW. Each trail makes me want to come back and Aloha Lake is one hike I'd love to do again. This is a popular hike and crowds are likely. Plan accordingly.
Most people would consider this to be a longer day hike at somewhere around 12.5 to 13 miles miles long (some say more, I really have no idea). Compared to Pyramid Peak, this is on the gentler side with just 2000 feet of gain so it's not a crazy uphill battle throughout. You are exposed a lot on this trip so don't forget your sun protection as it can get considerably hot and bright while hiking on a sunny day along the granite lined trail.
How to Get There
Just like a lot of destinations within the DW, there are numerous ways to get there, but I took the standard route which begins at the Echo Lakes Trailhead. It's a fairly short drive off US-50 to get to the trailhead. Once there, Echo Lake reveals itself and offers a great spot to hang out while preparing for your hike at the car. Use this pin to take you there:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/dzHvWPfr5W3n7MLGA
As stated before, you will need to obtain a free day-use permit at the trailhead or a Forest Service office.
The Main Event
This "backyard" experience was shared with my former military supervisor and his daughter when I was on terminal leave and getting out of the Air Force. He was just getting into hiking and we went on a few really cool adventures in California outside of this hike including another DW hike which will be discussed next. While the miles were longer, both him and his daughter were able to complete the task despite not having a lot of trail time. It goes to show a lot of it is your mindset. Don't set limitations which may cause you to miss out on a phenomenal trip such as this one!
Your journey begins on the famous Pacific Crest Trail, also known simply as the PCT, which skirts along the crystal blue waters of Lower Echo Lake. You will hike parallel to this lake for some time all while gently ascending until it ends and you meet up with the much smaller, Upper Echo Lake. Once past these two lakes, the majority of the elevation gain takes place, but when you're "up top" it flattens out considerably.
You'll be at the feet of many major DW peaks as you continue to tick off the miles so certainly look up as well! These 3 prominent peaks take a commanding stance on the southwest side of Aloha Lake and the one on the far left is Pyramid Peak.
You can easily tack on additional mileage by exploring all of the various nooks and crannies. Depending on the time of year, Aloha Lake can be anything from one larger lake to 1000 smaller ones just as I experienced in late summer. No matter the water levels, you'll have a paradise in the Sierras like no other.
If you're into swimming, many people take a dip, however, beware that these are fridged (at least to me).
You will simply backtrack after completing the out with the lollipop loop on the farthest point and you'll have the opportunity to catch up on all of the views your back enjoyed on the way in.
Mt. Tallac
This is such a classic Tahoe area hike and the mountain is easily one of the most popular in the region. One reason for the popularity is the expansive views of Lake Tahoe from the peak. You will encounter people here so it's certainly not a lonely trail. However, there is one route I'll share here shortly that might just give you the ascent all to yourself. I also have done the standard route so continue reading if interested in that.
How to Get There
The Tallac Trailhead sits in the heart of South Lake Tahoe off Highway 89. The trailhead will get packed so arrive early. It's also wise to begin your journey early to avoid possible afternoon thunderstorms so plan accordingly.
Use this pin to find the trailhead:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/d26VqHHd1uaraoAD7
Just as the other 2 hikes above, you're required to obtain a DW permit at the trailhead or a nearby ranger station.
The 2 Outstanding Routes of Mt. Tallac
There are actually at least 4 routes total and for the true Tallac maniac, you can research all of them and attempt each one if you dare. I have summited Mt. Tallac twice and have taken 2 separate routes to get the job done. Both begin at the same trailhead, but offer totally different experiences.
The Mt. Tallac Trail
This is the standard route that most people will be on. It's not overly difficult and you will be provided stunning views throughout the entire hike. In my opinion, the Mt. Tallac Trail is perfect for beginners looking at entering into the world of mountain hiking. It's no cakewalk so don't think it'll be overly easy. You still have to contend with 3,300 feet of elevation gain over a little under 5 miles (just under 10 miles total roundtrip) to the 9,735 foot summit which means sea-level people may find breathing at altitude difficult. Still, anyone with a reasonable level of fitness can bag this one.
The same guy I went with on the Aloha Lake hike did this one with me. I had already summited Tallac once before, but he had never summited a mountain in his life. He ultimately got the job done and was thrilled at the accomplishment although he did end up having some calf cramping later on during the hike because he wasn't used to all of the climbing. Be sure to prepare beforehand for a lot of uphill for the most positive experience.
You will start off heading south on the northwest side of Fallen Leaf Lake and after a gentle, but consistent climb, you'll be afforded views of the lake on your left. Lake Tahoe will also become visible behind you.
Floating Island Lake and Cathedral Lake will be your next major landmarks along the trail as you continue the gentle climbing through the fur tree riddled path. Neither of these lakes are nearly as impressive as Fallen Leaf Lake or especially Lake Tahoe, but they are still pretty.
After passing Cathedral Lake, the trail begins heading west and it steepens considerably as it heads out of the trees and up along a bowl. There is one particular segment that is especially steep and covered with scree (small, loose rocks) so take your time on this section if footing becomes loose. Lake Tahoe will become more prominent due to the solid amount of elevation gain you've obtained by now and views of several southern Tahoe area mountains will also be viewable.
The trail finally crests the steepest section and becomes more tame as you head north towards the summit. It's still another 1,200 feet of gain to the summit, but the most demanding terrain is behind you.
The summit is fairly broad with plenty of talus to sit on to enjoy the stunning sights of Lake Tahoe and surrounding areas. To the west and southwest is the heart of the Desolation Wilderness.
Unfortunately there is a problem with chipmunks and marmots at the summit who are not afraid of people and will try to steal your food so don't leave your lunch unattended. Don't fuel the problem by giving them handouts...
The Fun Route aka Southeast Chutes
I learned of this Tallac variation on Summitpost and it was actually the first version of Tallac I experienced. This is NOT for beginners and should only be attempted by physically fit people who are comfortable with class 2 and 3 climbing in tallus and scree as well as proficient in route finding. There is no trail after the initial hike in and you may very well be on your own. You will have to make your own decisions on the safest path upward so please don't attempt unless you have some experience. While I really want to share this challenging variation, know your limitations.
For full details, see Summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/se-chutes/155884
Assuming I actually followed the exact route on Summitpost to a T, essentially, you will take the main Mt. Tallac Trail up past Floating Island Lake, but before Cathedral Lake and you'll bushwack through the vegetation and boulders until you reach an open boulder field at the foot of the mountain. These boulders are up to refrigerator size so it's no simple task.
After the boulder field you will scramble up tallus. Lots and lots of tallus. There is plenty of manzanita on the mountainside to make things frustrating. Picture this, while scrambling up a steep mountainside, you have to contend with loose scree attempting to make you slip and slide and then the manzanita bushes provide numerous obstacles to go around or through (ouch) so the first part is no joke.
Once you get to the "rock towers" stick to the right and head up the chute covered in, you guessed it, more tallus. You'll ascend the chute and up through a v-notch which will eventually top out on the main Tallac trail just below the summit. If you've made it this far, congratulations! It's easy from here.
I personally wouldn't recommend descending the same way, but rather just take the main trail back to your car. The main trail is very distinguishable, but if for some reason you have trouble, just look for people.
I wore a GoPro and filmed some of the ascent up the chutes back when I did this. It will give you somewhat of an idea of what this section is like.
Burger Lounge
While I plan on making another post about favorite eateries in the Tahoe area, Burger Lounge is only 10 minutes from the Tallac trailhead and you'll pass it along Highway 89 if coming or going back to the South Lake Tahoe area. What better way to celebrate a summit bid or reward yourself after a long hike than a big, juicy burger and fries!
How to Get There
If you missed it on the way to Tallac, just look for the big root beer mug. Here is the address:
717 Emerald Bay Rd, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150
Useful Websites
Desolation Wilderness US Forest Service Website - https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/ltbmu/recarea/?recid=11786
Pyramid Peak - Summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/pyramid-peak/151024
Aloha Lake - https://www.hikingproject.com/trail/7020214/echo-lakes-to-lake-aloha
Mt. Tallac - https://www.summitpost.org/mount-tallac/150430
Burger Lounge - https://www.burgerloungeintahoe.com/
Do you want to find another California destination? Check out Bodi State Historic Park here - https://www.thebackyardexplorer.com/blog/the-silent-town-youve-never-heard-of
That’s a wrap of my top 3 Desolation Wilderness hikes. Get out there and create life long memories forging your own backyard adventure!
As always, B.E. Adventurous!